Marc jacobs’s fashion darling is plagued by criticism (Photos)

　　Marc Jacobs

　　Fashion darling is beset with criticism

　　Ten years ago, Marc Jacobs (marc jacobs) became the design director of LV. This American fashion designer’s ambitious plan of "New wine in old bottles" made LV, a century-old French brand, shine again. Among them, the new cute printed pattern jointly launched by Jacob and Murakami Takashi brought more than $300 million in sales to LV with solemn brown logo in 2003 alone.

　　Everything changed dramatically this year. After LV’s 2008 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear series suffered bad reviews, marc jacobs was defeated at the 2008 CFDA Award, which is known as the Oscar in fashion.

　　This talented designer is about to get married in Paris by lightning, with Lorenzo Martone, the boyfriend of a Brazilian advertiser who has only been dating for three months-this is even more surprising after the biggest gossip in the fashion world came out last week.

　　What happened to marc jacobs?

　　Who’s marc jacobs?

　　Born in new york in 1963, his father died young, and his mother’s marriage failed many times. marc jacobs’s childhood with his mother and siblings was the darkest period of his life. His only interest is fashion. After leaving his family to live with his grandmother, he entered Parson School of Design, a famous design school in new york, and started his fashion world.

　　In 1993, Jacob was fired after launching the "ronin fashion" series for Perry Ellis as the design director. However, this series just became his mark, and he and his long-term partner Robert Duffy were able to independently launch their personal brands again, which made him set foot in the international fashion industry. Since 1997, he has been appointed as the design director of LV.

　　Face criticism

　　Long-term struggle with abstinence and illness have brought Jacob a strong sense of insecurity.

　　Does the fashion world still love marc jacobs? This is already a problem in 2008.

　　"Recently, the public pointed to my personal criticism, which made me feel like I was about to collapse." Marc jacobs said.

　　Six years ago, new york was intoxicated with Marc Jacobs, and this intoxication quickly spread around the world. After 15 years of struggle, marc jacobs was officially hailed as a new benchmark figure in American fashion. However, with the strong financial support from LVMH Group, Jacob became as conservative and boring as Mickey Mouse shoes he designed.

　　For this, his own explanation is that the long-term struggle with abstinence and colic caused by ulcerative colitis have brought him a strong sense of insecurity.

　　When marc jacobs was 9 kilograms heavier than now, his fashion was cautious and full of ladylike demeanor, more like a classic version of CHANEL. Now, his spring series is more like "repackaging the life of a female star and putting it on the runway". "People don’t want to see the real world," Jacob said. "All they want is something that has been decorated. The evil in the real world shocked me, just like a circus or a cartoon paradise. "

　　Does the fashion world still love marc jacobs? This is already a problem in 2008. Some people in the fashion industry have explained that the cross-border cooperation between Mark Jacobs and some young designers has caused discomfort to another group of fashion giants who can still be called "young"-perhaps this is one of the reasons for his career decline.

　　Jacob himself said: "My design is not intended to be provocative, but I just want the audience to see a bigger, fuller and more fashionable picture combination. You know, people are always looking forward to a new fashion show. "

　　Design Q&A

　　When victoria beckham took Sprouse’s graffiti bag, all the disputes stopped.

　　In new york, if you have no leisure, it means you are successful. In Paris, if you have free time, it means you have succeeded.

　　About andy warhol.

　　Nowadays, many people think that popular art has been developed in the past 50 years.

　　Jacob: Yes, exactly. I didn’t really get a good education, except when I was 15 years old, I studied art investigation in an art and design high school in new york. I don’t know the history of art, but I didn’t know what I wanted until I got close to art. When someone says, "Why did you do that?" I said, "Because I like it." I think this is really enough. I don’t want to work so hard, you know? I like fashion. I think I live in a world where everyone loves fashion.

　　Am I going to be the andy warhol of fashion? To be honest, I feel weird, but I guess that’s exactly what I’m going to do. But I didn’t do it on purpose. I’m just interested in the world outside the fashion world.

　　About graffiti

　　Why do you want to create graffiti in the most well-known part of the brand?

　　Jacob: When I went to charlotte gainsbourg’s apartment, I saw a big suitcase in the corner. It was louis vuitton brand, black, but it had faded. That’s her father’s. For some reason, it reminds me of marcel duchamp’s "L.H.O.O.Q" (putting a beard on the Mona Lisa’s face), which I once liked. And I think the combination of letters and patterns in louis vuitton is the Mona Lisa of this company, so I came up with the idea of letting stephen Sprouse doodle. 　

　　It’s a very different situation here in louis vuitton this time. I basically broke the tradition, and I was told bluntly that I couldn’t change the canvas or do anything. And I’m tired of trying to please the communication director, and I’m tired of the rules of the game. So I think, this is the only time I need to do something different, and it is also the only time to make some changes.

　　About Murakami Takashi.

　　People are surprised that the top management of the company accepted Murakami Takashi’s works against LV’s previous style so quickly.

　　Jacob: It was controversial to make these graffiti bags. Every week I get a message: "No, they decided not to produce them." It wasn’t long before they said, "OK, we’ll produce it, but we only do the pattern part." There is a lot of repetition and deliberation, which almost drives me crazy. So, when a British media published that victoria beckham was holding Sprouse’s graffiti bag, all the disputes stopped.

　　For all the critics, they have enjoyed the MOCA exhibition in Murakami Takashi in louis vuitton’s shops. I think it challenges some categories, like, what is art here? Is it on the bag? Did you buy a bag or art? It’s hard to define it now.

　　About Paris and new york

　　What’s the difference between living in new york and living in Paris?

　　Jacob: It’s great that my lifestyle in Paris is so different from that in new york. In new york, if you have no leisure, it means you are successful. In Paris, if you have free time, it means you have succeeded. So, I will stay at home for a while here, or invite my friends over for dinner. In new york, if you don’t go to restaurants, art exhibitions or fashion shows with others, you will feel like a loser. So working in two completely different countries can make my life more balanced.